Colombia

Keith & I spent parts of March & April, 2024 in Colombia. We spent 10 days in the “Coffee Triangle” (also called the “Coffee Axis”) but both of us took separate side-trips. Keith spent a few days on the coast in Cartagena before he met up with me in Salento. And, I extended my tour for 2 days in Medellin and 5 days in Chia, a suburb of Bogota. We both think Colombia is one of the most beautiful countries we have ever visited.

Checkout this video of our trip through the Coffee Region

The Coffee Triangle

The coffee triangle is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with its tropical highland climate, with its balance of sun, humidity, and temperature, is ideal for growing coffee. The region’s fertile valleys and snowy volcanoes also provide the right nutrients for coffee to grow year-round. Since the valley is located in the Andes Mountains at 1000m to 3000m, the temperatures are very comfortable compared to the steamy beaches of Cartagena, for example.

In the Coffee Region

For the first few days in the region our accommodations were in the old colonial town of Salento. This allowed us to spend time prowling around 2 coffee plantations close to town, visit the Cocora Valley and one other colonial town: Filandia.

Video shorts on our coffee plantation tours

Salento

The town is one of the major tourist attractions of Colombia, thanks to its peaceful nature (although it fills up with tourists at weekends and on bank holidays), impressive scenery, easy access to the Cocora valley, and the retention of much of its original bahareque architecture typical of the coffee region.

Set amid gorgeous green mountains 15 miles (24km) northeast of Armenia, this small town survives on coffee production, trout farming and tourists, the last drawn by its quaint streets, typical paisa architecture and its proximity to the spectacular Valle de Cocora. It was founded in 1850, and is one of the oldest towns in Quindío.

Video Shorts from Salento

Picking Coffee

3 foreigners picking coffee in the Luger Coffee Finca (Farm). Me with Leo & Denitsa Goebel from Munich. We learned that the best Colombian coffee is exported. It’s the biggest Colombian export.

Colombian coffee isn’t meant to be dark roasted and bitter (and shouldn’t be relegated to the likes of Folgers)! We tasted farm fresh light and medium roasted coffee and learned about the truth behind Colombian coffee straight from the source. A few days after my tour Keith arrived and we had do another tour at a different finca and we decided Luger is one of the best coffee farm tours in Salento.

Coffee picking in Colombia is a labor-intensive job that involves bending over bushes, carrying heavy loads, and working through all types of weather. Also known as “cherry picking”, picking beans by hand is preferred because it ensures that the coffee is picked at the right ripeness, which is important for the quality of the final product.

Cocora Valley

25km (15.5mi) north of Salento, is the Cocora Valley, where the wax palm, Colombia’s national tree, grows up to 60m (197 ft) in height. This tree provides the habitat for a very colorful bird, the yellow-eared parrot. The valley has some hiking and horseback riding trails providing incredible views above the clouds.

Filandia

Filandia was founded in 1870 as a settlement of Colombians escaping the misfortune faced by the rest of the nation at the time. Settlers were attracted by the rumors of massive gold and emerald deposits in the area. The name Filandia comes from “Filia” (daughter), “Andia” (Andes); Filandia, daughter of the Andes. It is very similar in size and colonial architecture as Salento without the crowds but with just as many coffee farms and fresh air.

One interesting attraction just outside the town is this observation tower constructed on top of a hill with amazing views of the town and surrounding geography. Check out the view of the Filandia below.

Check out more pics taken around Filandia

Santa Helena Waterfalls & Hot Springs

Pools of water fed by mountain waterfalls are some of the most spectacular in Colombia. The pools are naturally heated by geothermally warmed water are filled with minerals.  It’s hard to describe, but the water almost feels like it has a thickness to it.  It’s really refreshing and soaking in the pools feels fantastic.  

Pools of water fed by mountain waterfalls are some of the most spectacular in Colombia. The pools are naturally heated by geothermally warmed water are filled with minerals.  It’s hard to describe, but the water almost feels like it has a thickness to it.  It’s really refreshing and soaking in the pools feels fantastic.  

Video shorts of the falls

Hacienda Venesia

Hacienda Venesia is a large scale coffee processing facility in lush (some would say “jungle”) surroundings that provides a total immersion in an authentic coffee experience. It’s located a short distance from Manizales, Hacienda Venecia at the northern end of the coffee triangle between Medellin and Salento. Some of the activities you can do: hiking, bird watching (600 varieties), coffee plantation tour, artisan rum making from scratch and making chocolate (because cocoa is grown on the property).

They have accommodations from high-end resort to hostal which at one time was used by the pickers. We stayed in the hostal – we each had a bungalow but there is also an 8-bed dormitory. Here’s Keith banging on his laptop:

Keith banging on his laptop
Video Shorts from Hacienda Venesia

Making Rum

We decided to take advantage of the Artisan Rum Making Experience that included learning about fermentation, distillation, and aging (and consumption). The instructor showed all the steps in the process from squeezing the juice out of a sugar cane to distilling the juice and extracting the alcohol.

Rum making video shorts

Pereira

Pereira is a city of 400,000+ in the mountainous, coffee-growing region of western Colombia known for mild Arabica beans. It’s airport is the gateway to the coffee triangle. Keith and I stayed in a hotel (Castilla Real) across the street from one of the 3 cathedrals in Pereira – Iglesia San Jose where we witnessed a procession through the city honoring Easter Sunday.

Jardin Botanico Universidad Tecnologica de Pereira

We were guided around the 14 hectares site by a very knowledgeable English Speaking guide. The length of time that the site has been a botanical garden means that it has really got a “jungle” feel.
The effects of global warming shown in the forest were particularly interesting.

Video Shorts from Pereira
  • Easter Sunday
  • The Botanical Gardens

Colombia’s gastronomy was unique

Colombian cuisine has its roots in the indigenous cultures that once inhabited the region, including the Muisca, Quimbaya, and Tairona. The cuisine was further influenced by the arrival of the Spanish in the 16th century, as well as the African slaves who were brought to the country to work on plantations.

I cannot talk about food in Colombia without mentioning this fast food restaurant that is all over Colombia called Frisby. I also have to mention I am a huge fan of fried chicken sandwiches – particularly ones from Chick-Fil-A and Frisby’s sandwiches are even better.

Frisby is a Colombian fried chicken restaurant chain founded in Pereira. It started as a pizzeria; however, later its owners decided to finally go into the fried chicken market.

The owner has claimed that the company name, Frisby, comes from the technique of spinning pizza dough in the air, which makes it resemble a Frisbee disk. Frisby has more than 200 restaurants in 50 Colombian cities.

Check out this video of a young lady telling Keith how great Frisby is.

Empanadas

These typical Colombian-style empanadas are tasty turnovers made with savory yellow corn dough stuffed with seasoned pork and beef mixed with cooked potatoes. The meat filling is typically made with cooked and shredded beef and pork, but here, we use ground meat to cut down in cooking time with similar tasty results.

Video Shorts of Empanada Making

Tejo

Tejo is the national sport of Colombia. It is distinctive for its use of small targets containing gunpowder, which explode on impact.

It is common to find professional tejo teams around the major cities and smaller towns. A few of the teams are sponsored by local companies or someone that loves tejo. In the past, the playing of tejo was accompanied by chicha (an indigenous maize-based alcoholic beverage), whereas modern tejo players refresh themselves with beer. Tejo has been widely exploited by beer companies in Colombia. Tejo aficionados are trying to change the image of the sport in popular culture from a rowdy bar game to a serious sport with a rich history.

Video Shorts of Keith playing Tejo